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Construction - Utilizing patterning methods of the period and study of original garments, we work to give you the most accurate reproduction possible. That dedication extends to the sewing details of the garment. While civilian garments are sewn with as a professional and clean appearance as possible, such is rarely the case in mass produced, military uniforms of the period. They run the gamut with most pieces, especially Federal uniforms, exhibiting less than a quality stitch. In fact, it has become something of a government standard that has lasted through the years to today. Both Tyler and I have been issued uniforms that are ill-fitting and with sewing that leaves a lot to be desired. We strive to show this “Contractor Quality” in some of the uniforms we make. We guarantee each of those garments to be sturdy; however they will exhibit some of the ugliness of the original they are meant to replicate. Wavering stich lines, uneven collars, a button or two sewn upside down, are all possibilities.

Piecing - What is piecing? It was a way for the sewer to save fresh cloth by utilizing scraps for use on areas of a garment that are not seen, such as the inner facing of a jacket or the waistband lining of a pair of pants. Where the pattern may call for a single piece in these area's, the frugal maker would cut pieces of cloth and cobble together the part. There are numerous surviving uniforms that exhibit the utilization of piecing. One of the most blatant uses of piecing is on a Federal issue shirt that survives in Illinois. The entire length of the left sleeve has a 3" strip, turning it from the one piece that it is supposed to be, into a two.

Unless you specifically request that we do not use piecing in your garment, we will go ahead and do so. Some may be different shades of color as seen in the facings of the SA sack coat in the Smithsonian. It has lighter colored inner facings then the rest of the jacket.

Cloth - We are always on the hunt to bring you the best and most authentic cloth. While the majority of our cloth is made in the USA, we do use some that has been imported from England, Germany, and China (some cottons & silks).

Guide to Measuring - It is important you provide accurate measurements. To ensure that your numbers are correct, use a soft tailors tape measure and if you can, have someone assist in taking them. Below is a quick guide for you to check and see if you are taking them correctly.

Head - Begin on the forehead about a thumb width above the eyebrows. Follow around the side above the ears and back to the front. It should be along the line where you want the cap to lay.

Neck - Taken around the neck starting at the Adams apple.

Natural Waist - Taken around the waist generally at the belly button.

Sleeve Length - Taken from the prominent neck Vertebrae (center back/nape of the neck), across the top of the shoulder, down the arm to just below the wrist bone.

Back-Waist Length - Taken from the prominent neck Vertebrae, down the center of the back to the natural waist.